Ten years later, Parisian cool-girl brand Sézane is targeting further expansion in the US
The sustainability-focused fashion brand, launched in 2013, came out of founder Morgane Sézalory’s idea to sell vintage clothing items from Paris through her website site, Les Composantes. As the demand for unique items grew, he began to design pieces with a vintage edge, which became Sézane. In 2015, the US investment fund Summit Partners bought a minority stake in the company of almost 20%. Three years later, another 20% bought by private equity giant General Atlantic, which now reportedly owns 45% of the company. Most recently, in September 2022, Téthys Invest bought a small stake in the company.
Part of Sézane’s appeal is its close relationship with factories based in Europe, which account for more than two-thirds of the brand’s production. Because of this, Sézane is able to offer premium products at a lower price point than its competitors, according to the company. And with shoes being one of the brand’s best-selling categories, high-quality materials and workmanship are top priorities.
Sézane is one of the first fashion brands to receive B Corp certification, in 2021. By 2022, Sézane has reduced its total carbon footprint by 22%. It also has an extensive in-house recycling program, with over 13,000 pieces recycled to date. Most importantly, Sézane focuses on small production batches, working to eliminate excess stock.
The brand has long focused on collaborations to raise awareness and gain new customers. In February, Sézane has launched a second collaboration with the New York-based fashion brand sea which sold out within 24 hours.
And recently it has focused on pop-ups. In April 2022. Sézane leased space in Los Angeles at Platform, a community shopping center, where it received more than 10,000 unique customers in the five months it was open. It then moved the pop-up to San Francisco in September 2022, before deciding in December to turn the space into a permanent store. Sézane also focused on pop-up shops in Europe with the “Amour” tour that pays tribute to each city: Amsterdam, Brussels, Barcelona and Madrid.
Below, Sézalory talks about why he still believes in the DTC model, what he learned from Sézane’s first US pop-ups and what the company has planned, in terms of US expansion.
How has DTC changed over the past 10 years, and what is working for your brand’s strategy and marketing today?
“I always saw DTC as the only way Sézane could be. This is the easiest way to connect with our customers and continue to nurture the relationship as the brand grows. When I first started [by selling clothes] on eBay, I had a weekly meeting with a small community that grew bigger and bigger every month, and helped make lifelong friends in Sézane. My relationship with the customer has always been incredibly organic even as the brand has grown.
I see our Instagram account as a platform to show our latest collections and products, but I also feel it is our duty to spread important messages, do good and make a change, such as our work with the Breast Cancer Research Foundation.
Regarding brand growth, we are implementing a strategy of pop-up retail locations in key cities around the world including Los Angeles, San Francisco, Amsterdam and Barcelona. They have succeeded in reaching new audiences and accelerating growth and conversion for the brand. Each space is thoughtfully designed through our lens, creating a window into the Sézane aesthetic from decor to product and environment to make it feel like home.
What results have you seen from the pop-up in LA and San Francisco?
“Our San Francisco pop-up in the Pacific Heights neighborhood was so well received by the local community that we decided to turn it into a permanent retail location, where our customers can find our new collection after collection. Even after a few weeks of opening, people are still lining up in front of our store and keep coming back to check out the new styles and colors of the season.
It was exactly the same in LA when we opened our summer pop-up at Platform in April 2022. The pop-up was a huge success for us, with more than 1,000 customers coming to see the store in opening weekend. A few years ago, we had our first LA pop-up, at the Grove, which was so successful that we kept it small. Our customers were excited when we announced that we were coming back. I am currently investing in finding the best location for our next pop-up opening. We have our eyes set on a couple of cities in Europe and the US that we want to open for our 10-year anniversary in 2023.
Why do you think the US is a good market for your brand?
“The US is an exciting market for any brand. Its vastness is both an opportunity and a challenge. We’ve honed in on key cities and opened our pop-up locations to meet our local customers. We always strives to put our customers first by providing quality products that last a lifetime and by listening to their needs.
We know the US is a big market for us because we have a large customer base there. It is our second largest market behind France. Our strategy is not really different from other markets; we always work with our fall into something. When I first opened a store in Paris, it was because I fell in love with the location as I walked every day. I always trust my gut feeling when it comes to an opening. We target cities that we think are a match for Sézane, and when we find the perfect place, we try to build a townhouse.