The alcohol-free perfume trend has been on the rise for several years. This is now becoming clearer and clearer, with major launches such as Dior’s J’adore Parfum d’Eau. And this is an opportunity for Neovix Biosciencesa specialist in plant-based O/W microemulsions, to promote this patented WPE (for Water Plant Emulsion) process.
“With my partner Christian Sarbach, we have been working for more than ten years on this technology, which Hermès has already used for the water-based perfume series Jardin après la Mousson, Jardin sur le Nil, and Jardin en Méditerranée. Today, the trend for natural and alcohol-free products and perfumes is growing, and we have many requests”States Marc Bonnevay, Director of SCM Cosmetics – Neovix Biosciences Group.
Sabé Masson, with its Soft Perfume Liquide, and Maison Sybarite, with the collection of perfume waterThis solution is also chosen to follow a more skin- and friendly offering.
WPE technology is a new process of dispersing the perfume composition in pure water, which does not use any alcohol or solvent, but is based on a plant-derived ingredient.
“This is a oil-in-water dispersion; neither solubilization, which is used in alcohol, nor encapsulation. That is what makes our technology different and interesting. The binder is a plant extract in very small amounts: a saponin extracted from various teas. Today, our formulations pass accelerated stability tests for a month at 50 degrees”, explains Marc Bonnevay.
The billions of micro-droplets in the composition give the juice a milky effect. It is recommended to use opaque packaging to protect the emulsion, and to add Ecocert preservatives.
“The same technology is used for skin care products. It all depends on the concentration of the oil. For a perfumer, it is 5% to 15% of the perfumed concentrate, but you can go up to of 20%, 30%, or 40% of argan oil, for example, while maintaining great fluidity. Therefore, the product moisturizes and perfumes at the same time “added the Director.
A perfume for everyone
The absence of alcohol leads directly to the base and heart notes, producing an olfactory identity as close as possible to the perfume creation, as well as enhanced remanence.
The perfume concentrate used in the WPE patent therefore provides a 100% natural, non-irritant perfume. Moisturizing and non-oily, the microfluidic emulsion melts into the skin without the risk of allergies. As a result, the solution is suitable for all skin types, even the most fragile, such as children and babies, and has recently been chosen for the new range of Toofruit perfumes for children . It can also be applied as a fragrant hair mist, without drying it.
“This is a great development. Perfume without alcohol is a very strong trend, and pump suppliers like Aptar and Silgan are all working on models designed for microemulsions, because they believe that this is the future “said Marc Bonnevay.
Between perfumery and skin care, WPE technology seems to impose itself, with a new launch is planned this year in the alcohol-free perfume market that is still struggling to find its feet. “The effect of Dior Parfum d’Eau is useful and will give an example. We are still facing the control of a high cost of industrialization, but the more we grow, the easier it is to lower costs”concluded Marc Bonnevay.
