How to spend a seductive weekend in Seville

Known for its steamy-hot summers, detached winters and sultry operatic gypsy heroine Carmen, Seville is a bijou city whose fabulous food, extraordinary Mudejar, Gothic and Renaissance architecture, and exotic flamenco rhythms by no means fail to charm and seduce. History oozes thru its very pores, with ancient Moorish walls, Roman ruins and Baroque churches at each flip.

Follow the locals to gap-in-the-wall bars, sip cañas (small glasses) of beer, and then salvage misplaced wandering the tiny streets of Barrio Santa Cruz, dotted with orange-tree-stuffed plazas, earlier than resting in a level-headed, shady nook on a tiled bench. For a extra authentic skills, head to boho Macarena or tile-and-gypsy quarter Triana. Then, after nightfall, head up the rooftops to admire the largest Gothic cathedral in the arena and its Moorish-Christian tower from a terrace bar.

For additional Seville inspiration, gaze our in-depth guides to the city’s ideal accommodations, restaurants, bars, things to gaze and finish, and things to gaze and finish without spending a dime. If planning a longer day commute, explore our ultimate itinerary in Andalucia right here.

• How to spend your weekend

• Insider strategies

• When ought to I search the advice of with Seville?

• The place to stay in Seville

• What to bring house

• Essential information: what to know earlier than you promenade

Be swept back in time to King Pedro the Smart’s Mudejar (Christian-Moorish) royal courtroom at the 14th-century Alcazar Palace, with its gorgeous ceramic tiles and heavenly gold ceilings. Explore the gardens, house to peacocks, pavilions and pools. Inspect familiar? You may have seen it as the Water Gardens of Dorne in Game of Thrones. In summer they maintain outdoor evening-time concerts right here, probably Seville’s most magical venue, with the grutesco stone wall as a backdrop as moonlight streams thru the palm trees. Advise that tickets are clean from the place of business in the Patio de Banderas, no longer at the main entrance; entry is free on Monday afternoons. Find extra of the city’s ideal attractions right here.

Then unpleasant Plaza del Triunfo and be wowed – inside and out – by Seville Cathedral, the third-largest in the arena. The basilica’s scale is jaw-dropping, with a 40-metre-plus high nave and 80 chapels. Be certain to climb up the Giralda belltower, previously the minaret of the mosque which stood right here, for fabulous views over Barrio Santa Cruz. For lunch, reward yourself with some divine contemporary tapas at nearby La Azotea – try tuna tacos with guacamole or rabbit ribs with garlic and thyme.

Head down Calle San Fernando, stopping off the Royal Tobacco Factory, certainly one of many settings for Seville’s famed Carmen – state the head of Colon (Christopher Columbus) on the entrance – and stroll on to Parque Maria Luisa, house to fairly tiled benches, shady corners named after love poets, and magnificent Plaza de España. This vast brick structure, constructed for the 1929 Expo, is a photographer’s dream, with its broad plaza, elliptical walls, and vibrant ceramics and flowers. Lookout for the statue of architect Anibal Gonzalez, gazing at his creation.

One among Seville’s slickest restaurants, Seis, in central Plaza Nueva, ticks all the boxes for décor (jungle-themed with myriad trailing tendrils), provider (efficient, friendly staff), and food (contemporary Mediterranean-Asian), as properly as offering amazing value. Start off with a cucumber margarita at the stuffed with life bar (you’re under a tree canopy). Then prance into a cosy sales space for Peruvian sea bass ceviche or an Iberian pulled pork hotdog.

Finish off your evening at rooftop bar EME Catedral Mercer Terraza, where you can mingle with the smart crowd, and sip a mojito at survey-stage with some gravity-defying flying buttresses.

Head over the river to the bohemian, sailor and ceramic tile neighbourhood of Triana. Start off with a search the advice of with to the Museo de Cerámica de Triana, which explains about this local industry, including the famous azulejos (glazed tiles), stretching back centuries – you’ll have seen luxurious polychromatic examples already, in the Alcazar palace and around the city.

Then pop around the corner and absorb the sights, smells and sounds of Triana Market, replete with new local draw – earn no longer pass over the fabulous fish stalls, with scary-looking seafood, or knowledgeable jamon-carvers. Saunter down calle Pureza to Seville’s oldest parish church, Santa Ana, constructed in 1266. Inspect out for the painting of Santa Rufina and Santa Justa, Christian martyrs who were potters from Triana; the city’s patron saints, they’re pictured with the Giralda, which they saved from an earthquake, according to local fable. Find extra of the suitable free things to finish in the city right here.

Back over the river, down an unprepossessing back boulevard near the Setas, is the sublime Palo Cortao. A haven for Sherry-fanatics (hence the name), this place has extra than 70 vinos de jerez, from dry, pale finos to golden, nutty olorosos. The seasonal menu tends towards seafood, with daily fish and rice specials; for carnivores, a pulled pork brioche, while vegetarian fare may feature sweet potato gnocchi with almond and truffle sauce. Householders Anna (FOH) and Angel (chef) and their unbelievable team have a tendency to diners on the small terrace and inside. Find extra of the city’s ideal restaurants right here.

Over on the Alameda de Hercules, centre of bearded hipster-dom, promenade up to rooftop bar at the Corner Condominium for a fowl’s survey explore of alternative Seville – the terrace supplies an unpretentious, laid-back vibe; Aperol spritz is the drink of want.

 Wicked back into the gypsy district and head to Flamenco Esencia at Taberna La Quedá de Triana, apt off Calle Betis, which has authentic flamenco shows on an intimate scale – the performers are swishing their skirts inches from your face. You may presumably even gaze a neighbour joining in spontaneously, in the accurate spirit of flamenco. Have a beer (you salvage one together with your impress) , or promenade on a tapas tour with a dancer, learn about flamenco, and finish up at the reveal.

Then head down Calle Betis to Embarcadero, a nautical-feel bar with tables almost on the water. Alternatively, even as you happen to may very properly be feeling inspired to take to the bottom yourself, promenade back towards Triana Bridge to Lo Nuestro, where locals practice Sevillanos, a local version of flamenco performed in pairs at the Spring Fair, to stay music all year round. A gin-tonic supplies you the Dutch courage you wish. Find extra of the city’s ideal bars right here.

Metropol Parasol is Seville’s contemporary architectural icon, and the arena’s largest wooden structure. Consisting of six mushroom-shaped shades (it is known locally as Las Setas, the Mushrooms) the 28-metre tall structure homes an archaeological museum; a food market and bars; and an area for concerts. Take the lift up to the panoramic walkway with spectacular 360-degree views. Your impress supplies you two visits, so don’t pass over the heart of the evening gentle reveal, as properly as a short movie on a vast, bent display cowl.

On Calle San Luis, in the Macarena district, you can find quirky craft retailers, and Seville’s finest baroque church. In the faded grandeur of Plaza Pumarejo, try the daily fish stew special at Casa Macareno, in a striking blue-fronted venerable ultramarinos (grocery store).

Avoid the hefty queues to salvage into Seville Cathedral by purchasing a combined entry impress (€13/£11) from El Salvador Church, a five-minute walk away, which is valid for both the church, and the cathedral and Giralda. It’s a bit of extra costly than online (€12/£10), but also avoids timed entry, so you can promenade to the colossal basilica in case you want.

Fail to be mindful taxis, catch the airport bus (Line EA) – a snip at €4 (£3.50) – which runs to Plaza de Armas, Paseo Colon or Avenida Carlos V, in the heart of the city.

Seville was certainly one of many earliest Moorish conquests and to this day retains incredible architecture from this time. Explore ancient walls and towers near the Macarena Gate, and the hidden Torre de Plata on Calle Postigo de Carbon.

Spring and autumn are the suitable times to search the advice of with the city, when the daytime temperatures are warm, with detached evenings. The city comes to existence for Semana Santa (Holy Week) in March/April, adopted by Feria two weeks later – the sherried-up, frilly-robe-and-dancing party in a fairground to the south of the city.

In summer, the afternoons and evenings are sweltering, with siestas a need to and a pool for cooling dips advisable, while winter days can be cool and rainy. However the solar shines (almost) all year round, so you‘re virtually guaranteed salvage blue skies and amazing gentle.

The magnificent Lodge Alfonso XIII, which is framed by palm trees, is a mighty-cherished portion of Seville’s history. With lamps bearing crowns and regal beds, you presumably can say it is fit for a king or queen.

Triana Home is an uber-sublime resort with an Art Deco vibe, located in stylish but down-to-earth Triana. The small but properly-appointed rooms boast classy décor by Seville’s most-wanted clothier. Suave extras include a elegant booklet with properly-chosen strategies on where to eat and store.

The great-value Alminar is a small resort hidden away on a winding alley in the warren of the Santa Cruz Traditional Town, simplest yards away from the Cathedral and La Giralda. It’s easy but smart and contemporary, and staff are splendidly courteous and priceless.

Azulejos (ceramic tiles) are a need to-purchase – Ceramica Triana, with a spectacular façade, has a mind-boggling sequence of vibrant wares, and takes commissions too. The store is handily located next to Centro Ceramica Triana, a factory-turned-museum about the craft. For gorgeous antique objects, try Populart in Santa Cruz.

A local institution for extra than a century, La Tienda Ines Rosales is famous for its thin crispy olive oil biscuits, tortas de aceite – try the Seville orange or lemon flavour. In addition to these, and other Ines Rosales pastries, the store has an outstanding sequence of top rate quality products, principally from Andalucia: including wine (top tip: Concubis exiguous-edition tempranillo aged in Spanish oak, from nearby Cazalla de la Sierra), and extra virgin olive oil – explore out for Castillo de Canena olive oil-based “natural essences” – No1 is Sevilla in a bottle: bitter orange, thyme and orange blossom, as properly as Benditaluz’s delectable orange flower water and jasmine-scented physique lotions (properly, when in Seville…).

• Seville is a very relaxed city, but it’s legal to be prepared about the dos and don’ts. The greatest distinction between southern Spain and Britain is the timing of meals. Lunch doesn’t happen for many except at least 2pm – although these days some places originate as early as 12.30pm – or 9.30pm for dinner (some places at 8pm). Whereas you happen to eat early, be prepared to eat in a level-headed restaurant without locals or a buzzy atmosphere.
• In terms of robe codes, shorts are fine, although as anywhere, in smarter restaurants trousers or a skirt is extra acceptable. In the Cathedral, the following attire are no longer allowed: micro-shorts/hotpants, miniskirts or strapless tops (females); vest tops (men); hats such as sunhats and baseball caps; and flip-flops.
• Public transport is unbelievable, although even as you happen to’re staying in the centre you’re no longer going to want it, as you can walk in each single place. It is terribly affordable per day commute, with one or three-day passes also available. The tram goes from Plaza Nueva via the cathedral and Puerta Jerez (for the Alfonso XIII resort), to Prado de San Sebastian (for Parque Maria Luisa) and terminates at San Bernardo. Essentially the most central Metro station (simplest one line) is Puerta Jerez; the line goes westwards via Triana and Los Remedios (for the Feria ground) to the suburban Aljarafe area, and eastwards thru Nervion (for Sevilla FC stadium) to Montequinto.
• Cabs are easy to find (white and yellow), with ranks outdoor luxurious accommodations: Inglaterra (Plaza Nueva), Gran Melia Colon (Calle Canalejas), Alfonso XIII (Puerta Jerez); also Calle Alemanes (by the cathedral), Calle Martin Villa (by Las Setas), El Corte Ingles department store (Plaza del Duque), Plaza de Arms bus station (Calle Torneo) and Plaza de Cuba in Triana. They are very properly-priced, and a fling within the historic centre (area inside the ring road) won’t break the bank. Uber and Cabify also both operate in Seville.
• Tipping is no longer any longer anticipated, and there may be no longer a provider charge, although some restaurants have a duvet charge for bread. A tip of around 10 per cent in a restaurant shall be gratefully acquired.

• Currency: Euros €
• Phone code: 00 34 954/955
• Time distinction: GMT +1
• Flight time: Around two and a half hours from London

Essential contacts:

• British Consulate (00 34 952 35 23 00; gov.uk), Calle Mauricio Moro Pareto 2, Edificio Eurocom, 29006 Malaga, Spain.
• Police: dial 091
• Ambulance: dial 112
• Tourist Administrative heart: Plaza del Triunfo 1, Sevilla, Spain; 00 34 954 210 005

Fiona has lived in the historic, flamboyant Andalucian city since 2003. As a city manual, she revels in visitors’ reactions – jaws dropping in marvel – at its delights, such as the arena’s largest Gothic Cathedral and the beautiful Plaza de España.